New Surfer Diaries: One day… That Will Be Me

After a long dry spell, I am finally back in the water! I managed to get myself out to Alii Beach (see my experiences at this break here and here) for a session with a lineup of virtual strangers, but we made conversation while out on the water.

The waves were pretty small, which made for a great day to practice surfing also wakesurfing because The water pretty flat outsite of the waves that suit for Cano can go with cool wake surfing boards. SMALL waves, and I waited most of the time … watched as a guy on his long board fish with rod and reel and caught a nice size papio. The humpback whales were breaching and fin slapping just beyond the buoy. That gives you the picture of the kind of day it was.

But sets came in that were impressive to some of the beginners. Waves were steeper, but not powerful. So you can feel the force of the wave right when it breaks, pop up and find that you are hardly moving. I wondered what had happened to my surfing … maybe I need to step up towards the nose for more speed … but nope, just no gusto on these waves today after they break.

But yet others out with more experience find a wave that takes them all the way in. I need to figure out how they do that and catch those waves that don’t even break as they ride it with no white wash? Hmm. I was perplexed, but this guy just made it look so easy and fun.

One day…that will be me.

I caught a few more waves, but found that it was difficult to get a long ride even though it seemed possible at those wave size. Either I pearled or I narrowly avoided a pearl by throwing board off to the side. I did that once by sheer instinct, and thought it funny at what I just did to avoid pearling. I ended up body surfing the wave for a bit floating up in the white wash. Small kine reward!

I did get great practice turtling. Still trying to find best way to be under board; straight, hug with feet or this new one I did pull board down with arms as you put your feet on the board in opposing forces (kind of like an upside down squat). I kind of like that upside down squat but not sure how that would work in shallow waters. Maybe not a good idea for risk of hitting back on rocks. Sometimes I turtled too early so I had to wait with my head above water until right before the wave gets to me.

Timing is everything.

Upon observation, the steeper waves require an angled take off rather than straight forward like when catching those little waves with no wall for a break that just turns into white wash versus breaking with crest coming down. Step up so adjustments to be made.

New Surfer Diaries: One day… That Will Be Me

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